Dr. Cate Shanahan, MD, has been studying vegetable oils since 2002. We talked about her background in biochemistry and what plastics have to do with seed oils, Henry Ford’s role in the history of seed oils, fatty acid chemistry and oxidation, how to avoid parkinsons and improve your mental health, her thoughts on sugar, fruit, and juice, the Hateful Eight, what Dr. Cate eats in a day, her new book Dark Calories, and more.

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy and Mark and Julie Calhoun

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/cate-shanahan

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:03:56) – Dr. Cate’s education background

(00:07:52) – Polymerization & seed oils

(00:12:46) – Athletic background & health issues

(00:15:04) – What a healthy diet really is

(00:16:28) – Why do people defend seed oils?

(00:27:19) – The smoking analogy

(00:30:46) – A brief history of seed oils

(00:42:40) – Edward Bernays

(00:43:14) – Fatty acid chemistry & oxygen

(00:49:30) – Oxidation & oxidative stress

(00:56:55) – Rust, autophagy, & chronic disease

(01:00:32) – Changing your diet to prevent Parkinson's

(01:02:11) – Sugar & refined flour

(01:05:51) – Mental health

(01:10:41) – Sugar continued

(01:14:38) – Fruit, juice, & old food

(01:20:56) – The Hateful Eight

(01:24:22) – Clean Bite app

(01:25:54) – Palm, olive, avocado, & coconut oil

(01:27:34) – Adulterated food

(01:31:00) – What Dr. Cate eats in a day

(01:34:14) – Ancestral eating & Deep Nutrition

(01:35:00) – Her next course

(01:35:28) – Where to find Dr. Cate

Brendan Baars is a boulderer from Grand Rapids, MI, who has spent the past seven years developing a new bouldering area called The Nooks in Ontario, Canada. We talked about what a day of developing looks like, his go-to gear, how his big toe saved his life, the untapped potential in Canada, the reward of establishing and sharing new climbs, undone projects, the logistics of visiting The Nooks, his upcoming film The Developer, and much more.

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy and Mark and Julie Calhoun

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/brendan-baars

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:10) – Capentry

(00:05:52) – Steven’s cabin

(00:07:06) – Intro to climbing

(00:10:03) – Weekend warrior

(00:17:14) – Discovering The Nooks

(00:20:51) – Goldmine

(00:23:12) – “This is sick”

(00:28:50) – Years of potential

(00:34:47) – Summer & bugs

(00:38:22) – Weather

(00:40:01) – A new avenue & a sacrifice

(00:50:02) – Sharing The Nooks

(00:55:10) – A day of developing

(00:57:01) – Custom backpack

(01:01:51) – Big Toe

(01:09:07) – Rope systems & ladders

(01:12:30) – The Developer film

(01:18:25) – Rock type & style

(01:20:47) – Elliot Lake

(01:33:39) – Logistics & amenities

(01:36:42) – Guidebook & KAYA

(01:39:06) – The Croc Block

(01:41:54) – Top Nooks Boulders

(01:47:56) – Hard projects

(01:51:31) – More Nooks info

(01:54:38) – The Canadian frontier

(01:57:43) – Wrap up + EXTRA teaser

Steven Bergey started climbing at 31 and climbed his first V11 outside within four years. We talked about his projecting approach, the “outdoor gear”, suspending your disbelief until the magic happens, his diet and sleep routines, tips for climbing at night, the pivotal moments that change our lives forever, and more.

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy and Mark and Julie Calhoun

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/steven-bergey

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:03:24) – When to call it on a project

(00:08:40) – Summer mode

(00:10:27) – The Martin Keller approach

(00:14:34) – Steven’s approach

(00:17:53) – The outdoor gear

(00:24:10) – Anthem

(00:29:26) – Adapting to fingery climbing

(00:33:26) – Diet

(00:37:16) – Thoughts on keto & carnivore

(00:42:38) – Still improving

(00:43:59) – TB2

(00:49:35) – More about diet

(00:58:12) – Sleep

(01:02:20) – Snacking & when he climbs

(01:03:36) – Work & night climbing

(01:09:08) – Light tips

(01:11:49) – Tea & coffee

(01:15:59) – Put in the time

(01:18:56) – Suspend your disbelief

(01:21:16) – Pivotal moments

(01:28:59) – Wrap up